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In Vogue

100 years of Condé Nast’s iconic fashion photography celebrated in stylish new exhibition, including striking shot of swimsuit-clad models stretching in a shower room

‘Coming into Fashion: A Century of Photography at Condé Nast’ provides a visual history of how the fashion industry has evolved from the 1920s to the present day

A GLAMOROUS shot of five swimsuit-clad supermodels lumbering up in a shower room is one of the striking images that has been unveiled to celebrate 100 years of fashion photography.

The Foundation for the Exhibition of Photography (FEP) delved into the stylish archives of , the US-based publisher, and brought together pictures from its magazines, including Vogue, Vanity Fair and Glamour, for a new exhibition.

 Five supermodels dressed in matching ivory swimwear lumber up in a tiled shower room (Deborah Turbeville, American Vogue, May 1975  Condé Nast)
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Five supermodels dressed in matching ivory swimwear lumber up in a tiled shower room (Deborah Turbeville, American Vogue, May 1975  Condé Nast)Credit: Deborah Turbeville, American Vogue, May 1975 Title

‘Coming into Fashion: A Century of Photography at Condé Nast’ provides a visual history of how the fashion industry has evolved from the 1920s to the present day.

Curated by the FEP and Nathalie Herschdorfer, an art historian who specialises in the history of photography, the fascinating portraits are currently on display in Beijing.

A vibrant image by Sebastian Kim, which featured in a 2011 edition of Teen Vogue, features two near-identical looking models in sports clothing.

 Two supermodels are photographed topping up their golden tans while lounging in the sun (Albert Watson, American Vogue, May 1977 Condé Nast)
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Two supermodels are photographed topping up their golden tans while lounging in the sun (Albert Watson, American Vogue, May 1977 Condé Nast)Credit: Albert Watson, American Vogue, May 1977
 Condé Nast, the US-based publisher, has delved into it stylish archives and brought together pictures from its magazines, including Vogue, Vanity Fair and Glamour, for a new exhibition (Inez and Vinoodh, Gagosian Gallery, French Vogue, October 2002)
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Condé Nast, the US-based publisher, has delved into it stylish archives and brought together pictures from its magazines, including Vogue, Vanity Fair and Glamour, for a new exhibition (Inez and Vinoodh, Gagosian Gallery, French Vogue, October 2002)Credit: Inez & Vinoodh, French Vogue, October 2002

The girls face one another with matching ponytails and minimal make-up looks as they blow on whistles. Their arms are adorned with heavily-jewelled bangles.

Another portrait sees a porcelain-skinned model throw her head back as she prepares to nibble on a bunch of red grapes.

The provocative photograph, shot for Love Magazine in 2011 by Sølve Sundsbø, sees the flame-haired beauty dressed in a tight-fitting white dress and a copper bangle.

 A vibrant image by Sebastian Kim, which featured in a 2011 edition of Teen Vogue, features two near-identical looking models in sports clothing (Sebastian Kim, Teen Vogue, January 2011 © Sebastian Kim)
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A vibrant image by Sebastian Kim, which featured in a 2011 edition of Teen Vogue, features two near-identical looking models in sports clothing (Sebastian Kim, Teen Vogue, January 2011 © Sebastian Kim)Credit: Sebastian Kim, Teen Vogue, January 2011
 A striking portrait sees a porcelain-skinned model throw her head back as she prepares to nibble on a bunch of red grapes (Sølve Sundsbø, Love, Spring/Summer 2011 © Sølve Sundsbø/Art + Commerce)
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A striking portrait sees a porcelain-skinned model throw her head back as she prepares to nibble on a bunch of red grapes (Sølve Sundsbø, Love, Spring/Summer 2011 © Sølve Sundsbø/Art + Commerce)Credit: Sølve Sundsbø, Love, Spring/Summer 2011

A glamorous image by Guy Bourdin for French Vogue in 1955 sees a model pose in an almost saucer-like hat as a black veil hangs in front of her face.

Edward Steichen captured a model dressed in an elegant pearl necklace and fur-collar coat as she gazes nonchalantly to the left for American Vogue in December 1923.

Fashion photographs – glamorous, provocative, beautiful, accomplished, magical – have always been associated with some of the most famous names in the history of photography, such as Cecil Beaton, Irving Penn, Helmut Newton and Mario Testino.

 A glamorous image by Guy Bourdin for French Vogue in 1955 sees a model pose in an almost saucer-like hat as a black veil hangs in front of her face (Guy Bourdin, French Vogue, February 1955 © Estate of Guy Bourdin. Reproduced by permission of Art + Commerce)
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A glamorous image by Guy Bourdin for French Vogue in 1955 sees a model pose in an almost saucer-like hat as a black veil hangs in front of her face (Guy Bourdin, French Vogue, February 1955 © Estate of Guy Bourdin. Reproduced by permission of Art + Commerce)Credit: Guy Bourdin, French Vogue, February 1955
 Curated by Nathalie Herschdorfer, an art historian who specialises in the history of photography, the fascinating portraits are currently on display in Beijing (Peter Lindbergh, Vogue Italia, March 1989 © Peter Lindbergh)
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Curated by Nathalie Herschdorfer, an art historian who specialises in the history of photography, the fascinating portraits are currently on display in Beijing (Peter Lindbergh, Vogue Italia, March 1989 © Peter Lindbergh)Credit: Peter Lindbergh, Vogue Italia, March 1989
 The exhibition, accompanied by a book, looks at the early work by such luminaries as Horst P. Horst, Erwin Blumenfeld, David Bailey and Guy Bourdin (Miles Aldridge, Vogue Italia, September 2002 © Miles Aldridge)
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The exhibition, accompanied by a book, looks at the early work by such luminaries as Horst P. Horst, Erwin Blumenfeld, David Bailey and Guy Bourdin (Miles Aldridge, Vogue Italia, September 2002 © Miles Aldridge)Credit: Miles Aldridge, Vogue Italia, September 2002

This has been the case since the beginnings of fashion photography in the early years of the 20th century: the great American photographer Edward Steichen took what were probably the first fashion photographs in 1911 and since then some of the most distinguished practitioners have turned fashion photography into an art form.

Today, fashion photographers are exhibited in the most prestigious museums.

Their photographs are sold by galleries and auction houses for considerable prices and each year publishers release new books dedicated to the best of the genre.

 The Condé Nast studios in New York, Paris and London were laboratories of creativity, employing artists eager to capture and show off the gems of haute couture (Erwin Blumenfeld, American Vogue, March 1945 © 1945 Condé Nast)
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The Condé Nast studios in New York, Paris and London were laboratories of creativity, employing artists eager to capture and show off the gems of haute couture (Erwin Blumenfeld, American Vogue, March 1945 © 1945 Condé Nast)Credit: Erwin Blumenfeld, American Vogue, March 1945
 A model dressed in a burnt orange trench coat, a leopard print hat and black heels is photographed posing on an ornate balcony (Norman Parkinson, Glamour, October 1949 © Norman Parkinson Limited. Courtesy Norman Parkinson Archive)
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A model dressed in a burnt orange trench coat, a leopard print hat and black heels is photographed posing on an ornate balcony (Norman Parkinson, Glamour, October 1949 © Norman Parkinson Limited. Courtesy Norman Parkinson Archive)Credit: Norman Parkinson, Glamour, October 1949
 Edward Steichen captured a model dressed in an elegant pearl necklace and fur-collar coat as she gazes nonchalantly to the left for American Vogue (Edward Steichen, American Vogue, December 1923 © 1923 Condé Nast)
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Edward Steichen captured a model dressed in an elegant pearl necklace and fur-collar coat as she gazes nonchalantly to the left for American Vogue (Edward Steichen, American Vogue, December 1923 © 1923 Condé Nast)Credit: Edward Steichen, American Vogue, December 1923

For many fashion photographers it was the editors and art directors at Condé Nast publications, such as Edna Woolman Chase, Diana Vreeland and Alexander Liberman, who launched their careers.

Since his earliest days as a publisher in the very first years of the 20th century, Condé Nast was a gifted talent scout.

By surrounding himself with great artists, he placed Vogue, in addition to his other magazines (most notably Vanity Fair and Glamour, as well as the foreign editions of Vogue), at the forefront of the photographic avantgarde.

 A duplicate of four back-views of seated models in swimsuits (Clifford Coffin, American Vogue, June 1949
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A duplicate of four back-views of seated models in swimsuits (Clifford Coffin, American Vogue, June 1949Credit: Deborah Turbeville, American Vogue, May 1975
 A model is photographed while wandering down the street in a chic white coat and knee-length patent boots (David Bailey, American Vogue, April 1962 © 1962 Condé Nast)
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A model is photographed while wandering down the street in a chic white coat and knee-length patent boots (David Bailey, American Vogue, April 1962 © 1962 Condé Nast)Credit: David Bailey, American Vogue, April 1962

The Condé Nast studios in New York, Paris and London were laboratories of creativity, employing artists eager to capture and show off the gems of haute couture.

The exhibition, accompanied by a book, looks at the early work by such luminaries as Horst P. Horst, Erwin Blumenfeld, David Bailey, Guy Bourdin, Corinne Day, Deborah Turbeville and Sølve Sundsbø as it appeared in the pages of the Condé Nast magazines.

This creative collaboration has kept fashion photography – and Condé Nast – innovative and often challenging but always able to capture the style of the day.

 A model with her head and forearms sticking through a white board is seen applying red lipstick (John Rawlings, American Vogue, March 1943 © 1943 Condé Nast)
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A model with her head and forearms sticking through a white board is seen applying red lipstick (John Rawlings, American Vogue, March 1943 © 1943 Condé Nast)Credit: David Bailey, American Vogue, April 1962
 Model wearing a tight-fitting brown rayon dress with draped torso, a Vogue pattern, together with mink fur hat (Constantin Joffé, American Vogue, September 1945 © 1945 Condé Nast)
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Model wearing a tight-fitting brown rayon dress with draped torso, a Vogue pattern, together with mink fur hat (Constantin Joffé, American Vogue, September 1945 © 1945 Condé Nast)Credit: Constantin Joffé, American Vogue, September 1945

With unprecedented access to the Condé Nast archives in New York, Paris, London and Milan, the curator Nathalie Herschdorfer has gathered original prints as well as pages from the actual magazines to provide a unique opportunity to see the work of over eighty photographers right at the outset of their careers who went on to become the biggest names in the history of fashion photography.

The book features essays by Olivier Saillard, Director of the Musée Galliera, Paris, and Sylvie Lécallier, Head of the Photography Collection at the Musée Galliera, together with an exclusive interview with Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Italia.

Full details on the exhibition can be found on the website. 

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