YOU know that frustrating feeling when you take a photo that just doesn’t do the view justice?
Well, that was my experience in Montenegro . . . practically every five seconds.
With sun-drenched beaches backed by magnificent mountains and tumbling waterfalls, seemingly everywhere you turn, no picture can quite convey how breathtaking this country is.
Which makes it all the more surprising that Montenegro isn’t more popular among British holidaymakers.
The small Balkan state was part of Yugoslavia until its dissolution in the 1990s when it merged with Serbia. But then a breakaway referendum in 2006 saw it become its own nation.
This was the sum of my knowledge of Montenegro as I boarded an easyJet flight from Luton to Tivat, ready for a classic southern Europe experience — good food, good weather and good beaches.
And being just a three-hour flight from the UK, what’s not to like?
What struck me on my car ride to the hotel was how crazily pretty it all was. Unlike other countries also blessed with a scorching climate, Montenegro has resisted the urge to sacrifice its coast to gaudy, unshackled tourism.
Benidorm it ain’t — although there is still a vibrant party scene for those who want it, more of which later.
The result is gorgeous towns of white-stone houses with terracotta roofs.
My hotel, Lazure Hotel & Marina, was in Herceg Novi, nestled in the enormous Bay of Kotor.
From there, one of the easiest ways to travel around is by boat, and I felt like I was in a Bond movie as I bombed across the water to different locations. Indeed, bits of Casino Royale, starring Daniel Craig and Eva Green, were filmed here.
The towns in the bay are lively enough, but nothing like more established holiday hotspots. And best of all, they are still relatively cheap.
Rooms at the Lazure start from around £80 per night — a bargain for the five-star hospitality on offer. Everything about the renovated 18th-century Venetian building oozes luxury, from its dockside restaurant to the private beach.
Montenegro has resisted the urge to sacrifice its coast to gaudy, unshackled tourism
There’s nothing quite like tucking into a scallop-and-saffron risotto, washed down with a cold glass of rosé, while the yachts moored metres away bob gently in the evening breeze.
I could have stayed sipping wine by the water all week but, having only experienced a fraction of Montenegro’s beauty, I was desperate to explore further.
One morning I set off early, heading north to the Durmitor National Park.
I was advised by hotel staff to pack some warm clothes and, having spent the previous few days basking in 30C-plus, I was sceptical about the need for a jumper.
But three hours later, after a twisty journey up into the mountains — quite a struggle if, like me, you spent the night before knocking back Montenegroni cocktails, a twist on the Italian classic — I must admit it was pretty nippy.
It was worth it, though, for the spectacular view of the country’s famous Black Lake — actually bright blue — that sits at the centre of Durmitor.
But as well as boasting geographical wonders, Montenegro is steeped in history, and there is no shortage of fascinating sites to visit for those who get itchy feet just lounging at the beach.
The 15th-century Cetinje Monastery is well worth a visit.
The right hand of John the Baptist, which baptised Jesus in the River Jordan, is said to lie here, as are pieces of the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.
Of course, this isn’t everyone’s cup of tea — and those who just want a good old-fashioned knees-up need not panic.
For that is where Budva comes in. The coastal town is the closest the country has to an Ibiza-style party scene, with packed bars and a vibrant nightlife, where people can party until the early hours of the morning.
The locals say the perfect hangover cure is either a bit of mountain or sea air. Luckily, Montenegro has plenty of both
But if you prefer a gentler pace of life, a ten-minute boat ride across the bay from Budva takes you to the island of Sveti Nikola.
There, I was treated to a seafood feast at the Pod Murvom restaurant, followed by a swim to cool down from the intense heat.
Make sure to stay until dusk for one of the most picturesque sunsets you’ll ever see.
I watched as the ball of orange dipped behind the mountains and the dying embers of daylight shimmered on the Adriatic.
It wasn’t until our final night that I learned more about those Montenegronis — and what really packs the punch is Amaro, a brandy-like liqueur laced with herby botanicals.
In the name of journalistic endeavour, I ended up sampling quite a lot.
The locals say the perfect hangover cure is either a bit of mountain or sea air.
Luckily, Montenegro has plenty of both.
GETTING/STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ B&B at the 5* Lazura Hotel & Marina in Hercog Novi is from £737pp with easyJet Holidays – includes 23kg of luggage per person, flying from Luton on October 18, transfers included.
EasyJet flies from Luton to Tivat until the end of October, from £38.99 one way.
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