Enjoy the cosmopolitan metropolis of Marseille with its bustling centre and secluded coastline
IT HAS never been easier to explore the charms of the French city of Marseille.
With the direct Eurostar from London St Pancras whizzing you there in just six hours, it is the perfect place for a city break. It is rough and ready – a working port and buzzing metropolis with all the charms of the Med.
WHY SHOULD I GO? France’s second city has seen serious regeneration efforts in recent years, much of it thanks to it being named the European Capital of Culture in 2013.
With that came new public spaces and art installations, and the “bo-bo” (trendy) cafes followed suit.
This year, it’s all about food as the city celebrates a “gastronomic year in Provence” — a series of events celebrating what’s perhaps France’s biggest passion.
ARE THESE STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? It may surprise you to learn that Marseille dates back to Roman times and is now a sprawling, cosmopolitan metropolis.
To really explore its depths, grab a Marseille City Pass, which includes free public transport. One of the most colourful areas of the city is Noailles, a bustling network of streets that make up the Arabic area.
Squeezed in between the spice market and Arabic bakeries are some of the oldest shops in the city, like the 19th century culinary emporium, Maison Empereur.
ANYTHING FOR BUCKET LIST? Be sure to make the journey to Basilica Notre Dame de la Garde – but go early to avoid the crowds. From its perch on Garde Hill the grand church commands the best views of the whole city.
Some of the best bits of Marseille are away from the bustling centre.
While there are beaches right next to some of the busiest roads, to reach the best and most secluded coastline, you will have to hike through Parc National des Calanques. Alternatively you can join one of the many boat tours. Another spot you can only reach by boat is Chateau d’If — the island prison that featured in The Count Of Monte Cristo.
And if you are looking for a complete change of scene, the cobbled streets of the much more refined Aix-en-Provence is just a half-hour bus ride away.
WHERE SHOULD I EAT? This city is known for its bouillabaisse — a seafood soup that’s served with rouille, a sauce flavoured with cayenne pepper and saffron, and slices of toasted bread. Chez Fonfon is a local favourite. There, you basically build your own soup.
The waiters come round with fresh, hot soup base, which are topped up at regular intervals. You then add the fish, served on a separate plate, and the bread and sauces as you see fit.
For a special meal, book a table at Une Table au Sud. Headed up by young chef Ludovic Turac, the Michelin-starred restaurant serves up modern takes on flavour of the Med. And it’s surprisingly affordable - the set lunch stars from 37 euros (£33), which includes service.
If you head to Aix, try Pointe Noire Bar A Mets, where you will find light dishes in a cosy setting.
GO: MARSEILLE
GETTING THERE: Eurostar has trains to Marseille three to four times a week throughout the summer from London St Pancras from £49 each way in Standard Class, or £99 in Standard Premier, which includes meals and more spacious seating. See eurostar.com.
STAYING THERE: Double rooms at Les Bords de Mer starts from £165. See slh.com.
MORE INFO: See marseille-tourisme.com, myprovence.com and .
I FANCY A DRINK: For a drink with a view, go to the Mucem (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations). There is a rooftop cafe overlooking the coast where you can settle in for a glass or three of rose.
Or to hunt down those “bo-bo” cafes, simply do a walk around the opera house. Loustic will serve up your regular coffee, but you can also sip on lemonade that is infused with cascara (coffee cherry tea).
Marseille is also surrounded by vineyards so if you are looking to bring back a few bottles of wine at affordable prices, head out to the wineries. Or make a day of it and visit Chateau La Coste where the serious business of creating wines sits alongside stunning art installations and cutting-edge architecture.
Allow at least a couple of hours to explore before settling down for lunch at one of the five restaurants. Even Bono is said to be a fan.
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WHERE SHOULD I STAY? The recently renovated Hotel Les Bords De Mer is a gorgeous spot looking out to the sea.
It has a rooftop pool and a spa with sauna and steam room in the basement, and the croissant at breakfast is truly excellent.
Or for something affordable, try Hotel Ibis budget Marseille Vieux Port, which is just a few steps from the city’s old port.
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